Lisbon Blog

Lisbon�s biggest and oldest flea market, Feira da Ladra, is a great place to see the quirks of the city unleashed. Translated as ‘the thieves market’, the roots of this twice-weekly extravaganza can be loosely traced back to the 12th century, and more reliably placed in the 17th century, when black market trade prospered.

Today, the market is an eclectic delight of trash and treasure, including second-hand clothing and books, obscure computer networking equipment, out-of-mint coins, old photographs and tiles, ‘antique’ and ‘retro’ home wares, and just about everything else in between.

Tacked onto the main hub of makeshift stalls, with their junk-covered blankets and trinket-lined trestles, is a more modern street sprawl, which seems to largely cater for the tourist trade. It is there that you can buy Casio watches, Portugal tea towels, socks by the dozen, last season’s dresses, hardware tools, brightly coloured jewellery and local artisan wares.

Although the joy of junk-sifting is reason enough to visit Feira da Ladra, the market also offers wonderful people-watching opportunities. Vivid market personalities are drawn together by a shared love of bric-à-brac. There are old men in hats, browsing carefully with hands behind backs. Lovably rough vendors, call prices to you in Portuguese as they hurry to swallow their lunch. The occasional hipster can be found in the crowd, competing for shopping success with a band of enthusiastic oldies. Weaving through the market isles, you’ll pass morning dog-walkers, groups of nonchalant teens, camera-wielding tourists, and enthusiastic collectors bartering hard for their new-found gold.

To join the fun, be sure to know your Portuguese numbers and remember it is okay enter into some playful bartering to reach your best sale price. A less active but equally enjoyable alternative would be to grab a seat in one of the mid-market cafes, order an espresso or vinho and watch the show. The market wraps around old warehouse, which hosts permanent antique stores, crafty boutiques, a gourmet grocer and thriving little cafes.

Held every Saturday and Tuesday, Feira da Ladra claims to trade during daylight hours, but is best visited between 9am and 2pm to find a healthy mix of bargains, people and marketplace buzz.

To find the market, head towards Campo de Santa Clara, in the funky Lisbon suburb of Alfama. From a distance, you will see the white spires of Igreja de São Vincente de Foran monastery and the white dome of the National Pantheon, the Church of Santa Engracia. Nestled happily between these two iconic Lisbon monuments, you will find Feira da Ladra.

To get there from the city centre, you can walk about 20 minutes along the waters edge toward the Military Museum and Apolonia train station, before turning left and walking a couple of blocks up the hill. For a quicker alternative, catch the blue metro line to Apolonio and then walk up the hill, or ride little retro tram number 28 and alight on Rua Voz do Operario, near the monastery arch.

If you’re looking for more adventures after your market experience, take a wander through the surrounding cobbled streets of Alfama to find more boutiques, bars and restaurants. 

Nic Freeman

Feel like a Lisbon local by choosing one of the apartments in Lisbon, wandering down the street to the nearby market and joining the Saturday crowd for some shopping and coffee relaxation. It is the perfect place to see meet Lisbon locals and tourists alike as they wander the eclectic streets in search of a bargain, a coffee and a good morning adventure.

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